After so many seasons in Berlin, I decided to quit Fashion Week this season. Instead I did my next journey to Thailand. It´s not a decision because Berlin is too boring or the list of designers not interesting enough. Rather more it was the need of a change I felt for myself. Especially because most of the shows are streamed live online.
While sitting on the beach I can’t wait to see the collection of one of my favorite Berlin based designers. Unfortunately the field of men’s wear designers is quite small in Berlin, Ivanman is one of those who brings some excitement to the field of labels. Well known for his straight designs and colorful collections, his design reflects exactly what I love when it´s about men’s fashion.
Sitting on the beach by night, Ivan Mandzukic proofed once again, why it´s worth to stay awake for hours in Thailand to have a sneak peek on his autumn/winter collection for 2016. Even though the looks are defined by the same minimalism of previous collections, it´s the game of volumes and lenghts, which captures my attention immediately.
Coats are in contrast to jackets with a bright and stand up collar. It creates a certain military style that breaks the clean silhouette, created by clean cuts.
Compared to collections of other designers it´s a breathtaking range where the classical black plays a back role and gets dominated by dominant colors like different shades of orange, petrol, red and camel tones.
I´m confused. Am I seeing a collar under the high closed shirt? I have to take a look twice to realize the amazing use of layering for his designs. By using different layers of color, Mandzukic creates a collection with a brilliant depth, without being flashy. A black blazer covers an orange vest, while under the petrol colored shirt a red color is visible. A range of colors that normally should fit, but harmonizes in a special way.
This colorful game is visible on the socks as well. Surprisingly it´s a glimpse of red or petrol that gets visible above the black shoes, when the models are walking down the runway. Hidden details that turn a collection into something special.
Trousers of a suit still don´t need a belt for a/w 2016. The bright band and the hidden button create the impression of a belt. Ferragamo already showed similar designs at his collection in 2015.
I really like the collection but have to confess, that I was quite disappointed when I saw the models. Skinny faces and way too thin legs give me always the feeling of being way too fat for the fashion industry, even though I´m already thin. I´m not even encouraged enough to order something or to ask for press samples, because I´m afraid not to fit into the looks. For the next season please come up with models that come closer to real life men.